Maine is more than just a summer spot for beaches, lobster rolls, and escaping the big city for outdoorsy adventures. The entire state is also very charming in winter, as I experienced with @visitmaine.
The coastal city of Portland is shaped by a peninsula that’s only 4.6 square miles. While just 68,063 people permanently reside in the city, that number swells more than four times in the summer months as tourists and cruise ship visitors fill the restaurants and shops in the Old Port area. That makes winter a pleasant time to visit, where you can enjoy the city’s historic charm, and you won’t have to worry about getting into a local seafood restaurant. Speaking of restaurants, Portland is definitely a foodie town. There are 536 registered restaurants and five James Beard award-winners.
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What is your Maine Thing?
It’s always a good idea to get an overall history tour with a local guide when visiting any place for the first time. We took two tours with @mainedayventures: “A Walk Through Time” and a “Culinary Tour of Portland.” So, what are the top three questions a Maine tour guide gets asked?
Where can I find a Holy Donut (and what are they)?
Where do I get the best lobster rolls?
And where do I go for breakfast?
Culinary Tour of Portland
Our “Culinary Tour of Portland” (led by super-knowledgeable A.J. @mainedayventures) started at Andy’s Pub with some incredible fish tacos accompanied by the perfect Portland-brewed ale. Then we jumped next door to Gilbert’s Chowder House for bowls of seafood and clam chowder. The Gilbert family has been in the same location for 70 years, and new kitchen staff signs an NDA not to disclose their secret recipe.
A.J. shucked us a few fresh oysters off the dock and served them with a bit of lemon juice. Delicious! Fun fact about oysters: they’ve been around for approximately 15 million years. An oyster becomes an adult when it turns one year old and can live as long as 20 years. Oysters can change their sex. And in fact, they will often do it more than once.
Next was a classic Maine potato donut from Holy Donut. Potatoes grown in Maine (when baked into a donut) taste unique and cake-like. We then visited a local dive called Mash Tun, which served the most delicious (and reasonably priced) lobster roll I’ve had so far. No sea views here, but killer Maine lobster rolls. And finally, we ended the tour at Cellardoor Winery to sample some Maine-crafted wines. If I lived here, this would definitely be my weekly hangout spot.
Where do I get the best lobster rolls?
So where do you get the best lobster in Portland? Before I share my recommendations, here are some interesting facts about the industry. A new report from the Maine Department of Marine Resources says that the value of Maine’s commercially harvested marine resources in 2021 reached an all-time high of $900 million. $700 million comes from lobster, so it’s a sizable part of Maine’s economy. The remainder of Maine’s seafood catch comprises of steamers, clams, and oysters.
Here are the best lobster rolls that I found in Portland, Maine. Best lobster rolls with a view: Luke’s Lobster Portland Pier. My recommendation is to try the Lobster Roll Flight ($38) with three 2 ounces varieties: lemon butter, spicy honey butter, and truffle butter.
The best lobster roll value without a view: Portland Mash Tun. As I described earlier, their traditional Maine lobster roll is perfect ($22). Unfortunately, we did not get to try Highroller Lobster Company (as the restaurant was closed for a month). Still, our tour guide Ross said they were also lobster roll tops!
Where to go for breakfast in Portland?
Where to go for breakfast? I usually don’t do breakfast. However, after being treated to homemade chocolate chip cookies, we stopped by The Standard Baking Co. for their freshly baked chocolate croissants and fresh shortbread cookies. Their cookies and croissants are good because they are not too buttery. But then again, it is hard to eat just one cookie. I would visit here for the fresh bread on a weekly basis if I were a local.
A Walk Through Time
On our “A Walk Through Time” history tour, my favorite stop was visiting the United States Customs House. Located near Portland’s waterfront, the United States Custom House is a testament to the city’s maritime history. It was designed to display the financial power and strength of the U.S. economy.
A blend of Renaissance and Second Empire styles, the three-story, I-shaped granite structure was utilized to assess, levy, and collect duties and taxes on imported goods to the United States. The building is organized around the grand two-story customs hall, which is the building’s public showplace. Two counters are constructed of several types of marble quarried on an island in Lake Champlain. It remains a Federal public building today to showcase advanced geothermal heating and cooling technologies. It is the best remaining example of Supervising Architect of the Treasury Alfred B. Mullett’s work in Maine and was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 1973.
In Maine, it’s required to photograph lighthouses
The two tours were a great introduction to Portland. Of course, when in Maine, I had to chase down a few lighthouses. Time permitting, you’ll definitely want to visit these lighthouses, which are only a 10-to-15-minute drive from central Portland.
Portland Head Light is the best example of a classic lighthouse, perched on a dramatic cliffside with crashing waves against a rock wall. Smaller lights along the harbor near Old Port are the Bug Light and the Spring Point Ledge Light.
If those lighthouses capture your romantic imagination for the sea, I’d also recommend a visit to the Maine Maritime Museum in nearby Bath to discover Maine’s nautical history. There, you’ll find a fascinating interactive media exhibit of the Cape Elizabeth light, showing how lighthouses are built, maintained, and operated. There are quite a collection of ship models from Maine’s long history of shipbuilding, exhibits about Maine’s maritime heritage, culture, and the role Maine has played in regional and global maritime activities.
Why I loved visiting Maine in Winter
Maine is not yet considered a winter destination. But if you want to beat the crowds and save money on accommodations, a visit to Maine in winter is in order. It wasn’t too cold, but if you wear a Merino wool base head covering and dress appropriately for the weather, you’ll be comfortable. I toured by foot for three hours and stayed nice and toasty. Plus, there are plenty of interesting shops to duck into and warm up. My hotel stay was inexpensive since it was off-season, so it’s a great value, and you’ll still have access to lighthouses and museums.
There is no shortage of things to do in Maine during winter. #WinterinMaine
I really love Maine. No matter which seasons you visit, it’s quite a charming destination with classic New England hospitality.
